The cod cake appetizer ($9) was not huge, especially for the price, but it perfectly sets the tone for what to expect from the rest of the meal: interesting and complementary flavors, spicy and tangy, and moderate to small portion sizes. Most of its taste came from the remoulade, but it was so well crafted this was hardly a concern. The lobster soup ($4, or a child portion for $2) was heavy and creamy, without a lot of visible chunks of lobster meat. It was quite smooth in character, with a smoky cheese flavor dominating. Still, it too was exquisite. 

We had the mahi mahi ($18), which came with cous cous and all but disappeared in a giant white bowl. Grilled to melt in your mouth, it had highlights of the blackening spice and soy sauce, almost Hawaiian in nature. The blackened catfish ($17) came with grits, and is the spiciest thing on the menu. It had a flavorful sauce and managed to avoid overcooking, though the grits did little to add to the dish. Only the salmon sandwich ($16) managed to be larger than expected. Served open-faced on multigrain nut bread, with enough red leaf lettuce and vinaigrette to qualify as a mini-salad, the salmon was grilled to bring out its flavor without letting the fishiness dominate. A barbecue glaze helped to that effect, as did the mountain of wispy-thin French fries, whose crunch and saltiness formed a perfect complement. The only "standard" item was the child macaroni and cheese ($4), which was similar to most Disney mac and cheese, only overcooked. Its portion was generous, at least. 

Dessert was a child's ice cream sundae ($2), a lump of ultra-hard frozen vanilla ice cream and small pots of toppings to add: M&Ms, sprinkles, and chocolate syrup. The adults split the chocolate wave ($8), a cupcake-sized baked confection of several kinds of dark chocolate, some of it molten and others crusted, with some white chocolate tossed in the mix for balance. The cherries soaked in brandy brought out the flavor, and the overall effect was one of decadence and richness. 

The service was fast, with the perfect amount of time elapsing between menu presentation and order-taking, and food arriving somewhat (though not TOO) quickly. Refills were also prompt and occurred without asking. 

But forget service: you're here for the view. One wall of the restaurant is dominated by enormous windows into the aquarium beyond, at one time America's largest. Colorful fish are everywhere, and at your table you'll find a fish-spotter guide to help identify them. The blue light pouring in from the tank is complemented by blue tiles on the mosaics everywhere in the restauarant, deep blue water glasses, even flashing blue lights inside novelty ice cubes. The emphasis in this restaurant is on presentation - even the child's milk came with a blue plastic dolphin that served no functional purpose. The slightly higher price of the food is easily recouped in the excellent taste and even more so in the wonderful atmosphere. Dining at Disney is all about unique experiences, and this is one you're unlikely to find repeated in your home town, so don't miss it. 

My traveling companion, against the advice of the menu, ordered red wine with fish, specifically Steele's pinot noir ($11), which formed a potent counterpoint to the mahi mahi and went well, despite the usual prejudice for white wine.