The lunch menu is large enough on its own, but you may well be encouraged to order things off the dinner menu, too, offering essentially the chance to create your own entree. We started with the blue crab cake appetizer ($14), which was as exquisite as it was expensive. A single cake came here, with cucumbers and white sauce around the outside. There was a lot of crab meat here, highly rich, and fortunately not overcooked. The bread served on the table consisted of premium crackers and whipped butter, and a second whipped butter with spicy herbs, a real treat. Our last starter was the lobster and crab bisque ($8), which was simply phenomenonal. Exceedingly thick, very rich, enchantingly dark colored, this soup was unexpectedly heavy on the crab and lobster meat, which couldn't have been cheap. Highly recommended.

Alas, from this point forward the meal veered into the mediocre. The baked salmon ($16) was flaky and moist, with a tasty side of dill remoulade. It was good, but not particularly remarkable. The crab club sandwich ($14) was huge, with three layers of bread and crab mixed up like a chicken salad. I found the crab taste subtle, almost hidden, amid the lettuce, bacon, tomatoes, and sourdough bread. The dill was the main flavor here. Of note was its side item of grilled vegetables, which were uniquely fresh and flavorful.

The daily fish special, saffron halibut ($18), came with scallops, muscles, and vegetables. The fish was exceedingly fresh and remarkably light, but the rest of the dish was flavored so subtly as to miss an opportunity to harmonize flavors. While the premium non-alcoholic drinks ($4) were tasty to a fault, they weren't re-fillable, so it's best to choose a flavor you've never seen before, rather than something more common (we had raspberry lemonade).

The child macaroni and cheese ($7) was surprisingly bland, with virtually no flavor. It was also quite runny, implying it was simply not made right on this day. One element that almost rescued the dish was a simple addition: colored goldfish crackers were sprinkled across the top when served, and these provided most of the flavor. On the plus side, this is one of the few places on property to sell strawberry milk ($2).

Our server really made the visit special. Somehow rolling together humor, wit, and class, he conveyed a sense of luxury and 'taking your time' rather than any delay coming across as the kitchen's slowness. During our lunchtime visit, we observed plenty of empty tables, so the atmosphere was muted. The powers that be seem to separate families with children into a different section upstairs, which is easier and less stressful on everyone. A lounge near the bar also allows for individual seating, if you want to visit by yourself (or go with a party, but not want to wait for a table).

The coup de grace for environment was the closer: free postcards of the restaurant boat, and hot face towels with lemon. They do everything they can to make you feel welcome here, and do a good job of it. If only the (dinner) prices weren't so high, we'd be back more often.